Author: Sarah Northway

  • Newyears Bangkok Bombing

    We ended up at a small housewarming/new years gettogether last night instead of the big party we were originally going to. The excuse being that Colin has a cold, but really it was just more our style. We’re planning to go to full moon in a few days so we’ll still get our drunken revelry in, no doubt.

    Anyway we were hanging out in the kitchen and a few people were watching TV when the announcer said something to the effect of “…and there you have it, another wonderful new years celebration in Thailand and another great year soon to come. Also two more bombings in Bangkok. Goodnight everybody!”. I guess this is pretty typical reporting; they didn’t want to worry people or bring the party down or whatever. Turns out there had been bombs going off all evening and the festivities in Bangkok and Chiang Mai were cancelled, which explained why they’d been showing footage from Taipei and Sydney instead.

    There was a total of eight bombs (maybe nine?) that went off, killing two people and blowing various bits off Thais and unlucky farangs. They targeted malls and restaurants as well as police booths; really horrible business. There has been a lot of this going on in the southern provinces but this is the first time it’s happened in Bangkok.

    Since we moved here, I’ve tried to follow what has been going on with the southern insurgency and the aftermath of the coup. To put it plainly, I suck at politics, and I hope I don’t offend anyone with these naive statements that I’m only backing up with my feelings.

    So I think I grasp the basics. One of the reasons behind the coup was that the former government was doing a shitty job of dealing with those angry Muslims in the south. Their approaches consisted of pretending it wasn’t happening, making empty promises, and sending soldiers down there to kill people. The attacks have gotten worse over the last five years; escalating from driveby shootings on police to bombing schools and public places. The insurgents are being funded but noone seems to know from where (or think it’s from selling soup??).

    One thing I’ve never understood about the whole thing – about a lot of terrorism everywhere – is that nobody takes credit for the attacks. They don’t say why they are doing it. They don’t release statements or lists of demands. They don’t even want people to know who is responsible. How is anyone supposed to fix the problem in the south if they don’t even know what it is??

    Not that it isn’t obvious what the problem is in a general sense; it’s a clash of cultures with a long history of government suppression and disproportionatly violent responses. But what can the government do to fix that? What would make these people happy? Their own country? Respect for their culture? Expulsion of all the Buddhists? Jobs? Money? By not taking responsibility, it seems to me their only goals are to undermine the government and chase off all the tourists.

    So after the military coup, the new leaders decided to take a different approach: negotiate with the insurgents; maybe even let them govern themselves by Muslim law and officially speak their own language. And the response to this? Even more violence than before, and now in the capitol. WTF do these people want?

    Admittedly the negotiation idea was flawed, because still nobody knows who is doing the bombings and whoever it is refuses to come forward to talk. I’ve been thinking about it and I guess I can think of a few reasons to not come forward:

    1) They believe (probably correctly) that the moment the Thai government can identify and target them, they’ll mount a serious offence and wipe the buggers out, US-style.

    2) I gather the idea of terrorism (and yes I think that is the right word for it after all), is to get everyone all excited and confused and upset: to create unrest. If people understood why they were being blown up on the way home from work and who was doing it, it probably wouldn’t be as terrifying.

    So I guess unlike the showy, no-innocents-got-hurt bombings in V for Vendetta, it’s not about making regular voting Thais wake up and take notice of what their government has been doing to the poor Malays in the south. It’s about freaking people out sufficiently that they blame the government for not protecting them. Then the government will have to act, or be… well… kicked out and replaced by the military.

    Okay, maybe this has been obvious to you all along, but I’m catching up here.

    Back to the bombing in Bangkok last night. Not surprisingly, it was anonymous once again. What is surprising is that the government isn’t blaming it on southern insurgents this time; they’re pointing fingers at supporters of the old premier, Thaksin (pronounced Taxxin – thank you totally unphonetic Thai spelling).

    This seems completely baseless to me, or at least I don’t understand the reasoning. I can think of a few reasons for the new government to claim it even if it isn’t true:

    1) If there are Thaksin supporters out there who were thinking of stirring up trouble, the military can now toss them in jail preemptively

    2) Thaksin is one rich mutha, and now they can seize his assets with the claim of cutting off terrorism funding.

    3) If people believed the insurgents did it, it wouldn’t reflect well on the new government. After all, dealing with the south was one of the platforms, if you can call it that, for supporting the coup.

    So what do the Thai people think? Well, we’ll never freaking know, because talking politics is even worse than wearing tank tops around here. Writing about it is probably some kind of terrible heresy that could get me shunned in my favorite restaurants. So I hope they don’t find out. But like the clothes thing it’s something I have a hard time agreeing with and one of the reasons I like hanging out with the expats on the island. The guys we met last night had some really interesting things to say about living here and fitting in to Thai culture (or not).

  • Geckos do the darndest things


    Mr Crabula
    Originally uploaded by apes_abroad.

    Today, I heard a rythmic tapping coming from up near the ceiling. It was a gecko who had caught a big beetle or roach or something about the size of its head. The little lizard had it in its jaws and was beating it against the wall to kill it. For about three minutes. Screw eating files – there’s real meat under that carapace!

    Also, some old/new to you photos in flickr because I realized we have so much upload quota left for December. This one here is Mr. Crabula. Yes, I was making him talk at the time. It was that kind of day.

  • Broken Tubes

    Just a note that because of the earthquake in Vietnam broke a bunch of our inter-tubes.

    This seems to have cut us off from random swaths of internet. LiveJournal is fine, flickr is faster than ever but we can’t get google or gmail. Thats why christmas emails are going unanswered. Sorry!

  • Just a few more puppie pics, okay?


    Omigod whatta cute puppee
    Originally uploaded by apes_abroad.

    This was actually back from the day Colin finally got out kiteboarding. (A note on that – we ran into instructor Pascal today who had bad news: next chance probably won’t be until the 2nd!)

    For the first time, Momma came by with all three pups in the middle of the day. I gave them some leftover rice and chow with fish sauce (god knows how good it is for them but they yum it up), then we romped around the beach a bit.

    I took 2/3 of the pictures with the ISO cranked to 1600 because I was too lazy to check all the settings. The pictures look alright unless you crop them or zoom in too far, but next time I will take the time to check the ISO (or stick to the auto modes).

    This is Brave here sitting between my legs on the deck and getting a belly rub. Someone had tried to confuse things by removing Rope’s rope and putting one around Brave’s neck instead, but I could tell the difference. ;)

    We let Momma in to the living room yesterday and it made her sooo happy to sit by our feet near the couch. Then Brave came scampering in, tripped over the power cord and in his panic to get untangled almost yanked the laptop off the desk. I am so getting an extension cord and moving that power bar tomorrow.

    Puppies is so cute with them gangly puppy legs!

  • It wasn’t _that_ bad

    Go read Sarah’s first.

    Stalwart GuardiansBangkok is not like the rest of Thailand. It is very different. Very different forces have driven its population, politics and business.

    I really like Thailand. I don’t like Bangkok. But our time in Bangkok was good. Thanks entirely to Pete, Leah, and Leah’s family.

    They were fun and happy and let us travel around in their well chauffered cocoon. The cocoon was full of history, amazing architecture, and even a very few people. Who I liked.

    The buddihst architecture was really great. It was intricate and filled with non-stop gold. I didn’t get any pictures that expressed the kind of non-stop oppulence involved. At one point Tee (our great travel guide) pointed to a stupa 100% covered in little gold tiles.

    Da boys of the summer palaceHe said the plan was to get tiles from Italy but they were too expensive so they just did it in gold. Everything was pretty much either outlandish or gold. Actually most things where just both. So that was amazing to see.

    The other thing I liked alot was the old capital of Ayuthaya. It had an old, vastish buddhist temple complex. Most of it was rubble but alot of the stupas were still standing. Back in the glory days everything was all goldy and impressive but now it’s just all raw bricks. I like old things that look old and the ruins definitely oblige.

    One of the less picture worthy parts of the ruins was the old royal palace. Which simply no longer exists. Apparently the Thais are still pissed at the Burmese for that one.

    Keeping up AppearancesThe destruction wreacked on the old capital was visited all over the Siamese world. As our guide put it so memorably: “Everything to be burned. Everyone to be killed”. In fact the burmese swept aside three simese kingdoms who had been fighting for dominance since the Siam ascendency hundreds of years earlier. After the destruction of the old kingdoms however the beloved king Taksin raised an army and built the new kingdom of Siam over the ashes. The new captial was built in Bangkok (well close to bangkok) to take better advantage of booming international trade.

    Seems like everywhere you go there is an ‘old capitol’ of Thailand. This is because now Thai people identify themselves with all the old ethnic Thai Kingdoms. So at a few points in history there were 3 or 4 ‘old capitals’ at once.

    Mabey it’s because I’ve read some Thai history that I found the sights more interesting than Sarah.

    Anyway all in all it really wasn’t _that_ bad.

    offtopic ps: Is google down there too? It’s been down all day. Now gmail is down too. Isn’t this one of the signs of the appocalypse?

    and is altavista a .com or .org? Am I even spelling it right?