Author: Sarah Northway

  • Trains and shoddy shoddy seams

    Back on Koh Phangan, and I have never needed a sewing machine more! All the wonderful, dirt-cheap clothes I bought in Chiang Mai are starting to fall apart, already, after just one week. I think sleeping in them for two nights, coupled with my not-at-all-thai-sized bosom, are to blame. We took two night trains to get back and they were air conditioned as advertised – but to the max. Colin devised a way to cover the vent on our first train but I still ended up layering on just about every article of clothing I had with me.

    Our first train was totally the best way to travel – we caught a ‘special’ japanese express train that was only half full, and had a four-person sleeping room to ourselves. Instead of sealing off the beds individually we tied the dividers together to cover the door and windows to the hall. The train left at 10:00 pm and got in to Bangkok at 11:00 am the next day, so we snoozed for most of it and time flew by. It was truly POSH (at least the SH part as we were heading home, on the starboard side of the train). Much better than the flight over and half the cost.

    Our second train was half the cost again and we could see why. There were no sealed rooms, just sets of uncomfortably close facing chairs that fold into top and bottom bunks. Instead of the fancy free meals and water from the first train, vendors continuously walked up and down the aisles moaning loudly in Thai and banging people with baskets of overpriced snacks. We were both on the top bunks (which didn’t seem much better than the bottom) but it meant we sat apart from each other until the beds were made up, and the Thais in the chairs facing ours wouldn’t switch so we could sit together. In fact they refused to even make eye contact after making us move, and one kept talking about us ‘farangs’ on her cellphone. Once we got to the sleeping it was all good, but unfortunatly this train was 3:00 pm to 3:00 am so we didn’t get much of it.

    We did get out to see Bangkok for a few hours between trains, at least the bits near the station. It was stinky and dirty and thrown together, but there were some neat winding alleys, and on the major roads they had actual pedestrian signals, as if expecting people to be on foot! Chiang Mai did have crosswalks but the steady traffic would just flow around you as you went across. As Lukitha suggested: walk slowly and steadily and make no sudden movements.

    Oh, I have now had the experience of using squat toilets on a train! They’re pretty much this: a hole in the floor (you can see the track go by below) surrounded by a shallow raised porcelin bowl with foot treads on either side, and about twelve inches of floor around it. Like most Thai-style bathrooms they were wet and filthy and some part of the plumbing was malfunctioning. So imagine balancing on slippery wet porcelin while the train is lurching from side to side, squatting and trying desperatly (as a girl) not to pee all over your pants, your feet and the floor. We westerners have it easy – over here you have to be a gymnast just to take a piss.

    (But as I’ve mentioned I am a total convert to the usage of water instead of toilet paper. The spray guns here are more effective, more hygenic, better for the environment, and easier on plumbing systems.)

    Once more back to the Thai clothes (as I sew the strap back on a shirt): Bangkok women if anything dress more conservatively than in Chiang Mai and I got comments to go with the dirty looks when I briefly wore a tank top (but it was so haw-awt there). Although I spent the whole week in Chiang Mai on the lookout for one-size-fits-farangs sleeved tops, I instead managed to buy three sleeveless ones that are definatly no-go in polite Thai society. Why do they sell them if they don’t want you to wear them? And why do they make them so irresistibly pretty?? Luckily our island is more relaxed about such things, and more forgiving of sweaty foreigners showing their cleavage in public. Or at least on their own front decks.

  • Still kickin it in Chiang Mai

    So much to say! But I’m feeling kind of sleepy again (the cold) so I’ll have to save the ten-page whatnot for later. We rode elephants today! Yes, ever since Umut told me about it I’ve wanted to ride on an elephant too. And it was as cool as I’d hoped. ^_^

    Day before, we went to the big fancy flower expo with Luke & Tabitha. It was pretty cool too; highlights were the giant orchid diorama contest and a temporate greenhouse that reminded us of BC. Also franken-flowerbushes and a big… thing… made out of gold leaves.

    It was very cool hanging out with Lukitha… Taluka.. those guys. Tabitha’s Thai is quite good and made bartering/etc pretty fun. They knew where to get the best Khao Soi and Pad Thai, for the best prices too. Have I mentioned before, how cheap things are in Chiang Mai? At least food, clothes and market knicknacks.

    It is quite a pretty city I think; reminds me of Vancouver in ways. Lots of trees, lots of little alleys and neat shops and restaurants that only serve a couple things.

    So, we’ll probably be off on our way home before we post again. We took the plane over but will take the train back. Might stop in Bangkok to break the trip up, or save it for another time. Yay for having such freedom!

  • Hangin in the Mai

    Hey all.

    Hangin in Chiang Mai with Luke and Tabitha. Nice city. Everyone speaks poorly of Bangkok and everyone speaks favourably of Chiang Mai.

    There is a royal horticulture/flower show on that has drawn a big number of people into the city. Hope to see it tomorrow.

    We visited the famous sunday market, which was amazing. It was like the market in Wien*10. No exageration. Although the Chiang mai market had no second hand section whatsoever which was the coolest part of the Wien market.

    Anyway, vast and varried.. sort of. There where bascially clothes and knicknacks for sale for kilometers. And while any given catagorie was reproduced ad-nauseium there was extremely little repetition of actual things. Very impressive. There was one section where a 1/2 dozen artists had all put out their work. Gorgeous vibrant stuff. I really really wanted to buy some but there are practical reasons I didn’t.

    I took no pictures.

    I am sitting in a huge mall that has > 5 camera stores. I am seriously considering spending far too much money on a new camera.

    That is all.

  • In Chiang Mai!

    We’ve arrived in Chiang Mai! Yes, we were pining for the thrill of being on the road again after three weeks of mostly stationary adventuring. So we’re going to meet up with Luke and Tabitha shortly and do this town up right.

    Anyone know anything about Chiang Mai…? (this was a little spurr of the moment to say the least; amazingly we didn’t have any trouble arranging travel plans with one day’s notice). Now to find a place to stay the night – we are tyyyyyyyered!

  • Yes we have reached into the heavens and plucked an intertube of our very own from the sky.

    Big dish eh? The newer ones are apparently smaller and apparently less powerfull. At least thats what the guy said. Could well be they’re just cheaper and he makes a little more off of the big one. Either way I’m happy. I’ve had to reset the connection a couple of times this-morning although I’m not sure it was necessary. At one point everything went dead and was all ready to start cursing the thing out. Until I noticed I had pulled the ethernet cord out of the back of the modem. Oops.

    Everyone keeps telling us we have been extremely lucky with the weather so far. You get the feeling from them that the 40 days and 40 nights are right around the corner. The gulf put on the biggest storm yet this-morning. All last night we’d get bright flashes of light in the window and just the occasional faint, ominous, rumbling of thunder. I’m nursing a bit of a cold and it didn’t make it easy to sleep. I kept imagining commandoes landing on our long shallow bay overpowering the island in a first big to conquer Thailand. I actually had to reason with myself that even if there where a state with such interests (or if the southern seperatists grew in size by an order of magnitude) they would probably start with Bangkok or Chiang Mai. Or Phucket if they really wanted an island.

    So thismorning I woke to a furious rain, the worst so far. It lasted a long time too, at least 10 minutes. I just can’t believe the transitive nature of rain here. It refuses to rain for more than 10 minutes at a time. No matter how cloudy or thundery or how hard or how lightly it rains. It _always_ peters out in just a few minutes. Which is a bit of a shame considering how nice this house is to be in when it rains.

    The roof generates great noises in the rain and we aren’t really shielded from them by anything. House construction here is very different. They don’t need insulation of any kind!

    Take our house: It is esentially one large piece of concrete. This actually took me a while to figure out. I had to go around knocking on all the walls to convince myself. If you stripped the paint, roof and windows it would look like one of those bombed out soviet era appartment buildings. Except in bungalo form.

    When the satalite guys put the modem in they had to get the wires from the satalite to the living room so they just drilled two holes in the floor. I can see the ground outside through the holes in my living-room! The things you can get away with when it never drop below 25!